|

 HEATING
HARDWOOD FLOORS  |
The
Hardwoods of North
America
A renewing and abundant
resource
Among the most popular hardwoods for decorative woodwork, flooring and custom
cabinetry are:
|
- alder
- ash
- beech
- birch
- cherry
- hickory/pecan
- maple
- oak
- poplar
- walnut
|
 |
|
The United States
and Canada grow about twice
as much hardwood as they
harvest annually. Professional
foresters typically choose
individual or small groups
of mature trees, leaving
a variety of others standing.
Selective harvesting encourages
new growth by allowing sunlight,
rain and nutrients to reach
smaller trees, which respond
vigorously, reaching heights
of 15 to 20 feet in as little
as five years. Foresters
sustain habitats that team
with wildlife, contribute
to clean air and water, provide
recreational opportunities
and supply products that
find new life in the home.
Responsible forestry ensures
that one of our most renewable
resources, treasured for
its beauty and variety, will
be plentiful for generations
to come.
|
Now a Good
Match

|
Technology
has paved the way for
you to provide your clients
with the beauty of North
American hardwoods and
the warmth of radiant
heat flooring. Building
professionals have become
more adept at managing
wood's natural expansion
and contraction.
At the
same time, advances in
the heated flooring industry
are permitting easier installation
of hardwood floors. Builders,
architects and designers
now achieve faultless installations
of oak, ash, cherry, maple,
hickory, walnut and other
fine hardwood flooring over
radiant heat. |
For
many builders, the reluctance
to install hardwood floors
over radiant heat stemmed
from problems associated
with the original technology
introduced more than
40 years ago. Back then,
floors were heated excessively
to compensate for poor building
insulation. Those high temperatures
exaggerated expansion and
contraction in hardwood flooring,
causing irreparable damage
to both the floors and the
builders' reputations. Today,
modern insulation and building
techniques allow a radiant
floor to stay cooler than
the floor of the average
sunroom. Radiant heat systems
use a three-stage process
to convey heated water to
its destination. A water
heating system, comprised
of either a standard
boiler, water heater, a geothermal
heat pump or even solar
panels, warms the water.
Then, a series of controls
pumps the heated water through
a tubing network. The
water releases its energy
and returns to the boiler
system to be reheated.
|
How it
Works

|
Installing
A Radiant Heat Floor
Pay Attention to
Details
Installing hardwoods
over radiant heat isn't much
different from laying a typical
hardwood floor.
Most important is good communication
with the radiant heat system
designer. It's critical that
everyone is notified of any
work pertaining to the installation,
especially if specifications are changed.
To ensure a superior end product, pay attention to the following factors before,
during and after installation:
|

|
- Floor Temperature
- Subfloor
- Tube Installation
- Climate Controls
- Moisture Content
|
|
Floor Temperature:
Proved the radiant heat system designer with the hardwood flooring dimensions
and species, subfloor style and the desired temperature of each room.
This will give him/her the information needed to calculate the necessary
system supply water temperature.

Subfloor:
Work with the system designer to choose the subfloor option that
best meets both of your needs. The heat system designer is responsible
for the subfloor installation, but you will want to be familiar with
some of the styles. Direct contact of the tubing with the flooring
is not recommended.

Tube Installation:
Consult with the system designer to determine the tube network layout,
so you'll know where the tubes are before you nail down the floor. It
is best to have the tubing spaced evenly down the joist cavity (between
the sleepers). Then, you can nail down the finished flooring onto the
sleepers on either-inch centers. When the tubing circuits are crossed
over the center of the joist cavity, have the system designer use nail
plates to protect the radiant circuits from being punctured.

Climate Controls:
The following climate controls should be operational to minimize expansion
and contraction during and after installation of the floor.

Mechanical humidity Control: The heating/ventilation/air
conditioning (HVAC) system should have mechanical humidity control. This
will monitor the room and keep the relative humidity at an even level,
which will keep the equilibrium moisture content of the floor stable.

Heat Transfer Point Control: The system designer
also should install a set point control that will monitor the wood
floor temperature. The set point control should either reduce the
system water temperature or temporarily cycle the system off to prevent
overheating the flooring in case of an equipment malfunction.

Exterior Thermostat: An exterior thermostat is recommended
to protect the perimeter of the system from condensation absorption
during the spring and fall when rapid temperature changes may occur.

Moisture Content:
Once the subfloor, tubing and climate controls have been installed,
the heating system is fully operational and should be run fro at
least 72 hours to balance the house's moisture content.
Now following the customary procedures for installing any hardwood floor.
Be sure to monitor the moisture content of both the subfloor and flooring
strips, because this will have a profound effect on the end result of your
installation. Remember, do you install the flooring over green concrete or
wet plywood? Even if the wood is dry, it will pick up moisture from the wet
subfloor.
If you're using a concrete slab - The slab should be
well-aged before installing a hardwood floor. Never install wood flooring
over concrete or gypsum cement until you've turned on the floor heating
system to remove any residual moisture from the slab.
Here is a simple procedure to check for the presence of excessive
moisture in the slab: Tape a 4' X 4' foot section of polyethylene
plastic sheeting to the slab and turn on the heat. If moisture appears
under the plastic, heat the slab for another day or so. Repeat this
test until no moisture is visible.
Install an 8 mil polyethylene vapor barrier on top of all slabs in contact
with the ground or overfill. Make sure the vapor barrier isn't damaged before
the finished floor is installed.
Plywood subfloor:
Turn on the permanent heat source if the plywood is wet. Don't
deliver the flooring until the room has reached the proper relative humidity.
Plywood (5/8") or oriented strand board (3/4") make good
candidates for subfloor materials in radiant installations. Particle
board subfloors are not recommended by radiant heat companies.
Moisture Content in the Hardwood Flooring Strips
Monitor the moisture content of your flooring before installation. Most wood
is shipped and stored at a equilibrium moisture content between 6 and 9 percent,
which matches average levels in North America. But you are well-advised to
either borrow or buy a wood moisture meter and check samples to determine
the flooring moisture content at the job site.
Consult with you local hardwood flooring supplier about the average conditions
in your area and match the flooring's moisture level to that. If the wood
is too wet, turn on the floor heat or a secondary heat source, spread the
flooring out, and let it dry while maintaining adequate ventilation in the
room. Keep a close eye on the moisture level and keep written records daily.
Make sure that you do not dry the wood too much, or it will cause installation
problems. If the wood is too dry when you remove it from its packaging, return
it.
Once the wood reaches the desired moisture content, you are ready to install
the flooring.
Quick TipsIdeas that make Your Job Easier
Avoid Wide Plank Flooring
Solid North American hardwood flooring is available in parquet patterns
or pieces that are either less than 3" (strip flooring), or more that 3" wide
(plank flooring). All of these types of solid flooring will expand and contract
with changes in moisture content. Parquet floors are readily used in radiant
heat applications. With flooring strips, the wider the board, the greater
the potential for gaps between the boards when they experience these seasonal
changes. It isn't recommended to use radiant floor heating under plank flooring
wider than 3". Despite all your precautions, there is a high probability
that the user will not be satisfied. Follow these other tips to prevent
shrinkage cracks:

Pre-Installation
Heating
Once the heating system is installed, turn it on and let it run for at least
72 hours to bring the house to the desired relative humidity.
Temporary, un-vented sources of heat such has propane-bred "salamanders" are
not appropriate, because they can put excessive amounts of water vapor
into the building. If they must be used, windows must be left open
so excessive humidity can be vented.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|